Electric strike vs magnetic lock is one of the most common access-control decisions for Brooklyn businesses, but it is not the whole decision. A business may also need an electrified cylindrical lock, electrified mortise lock, electrified storefront deadlatch, or electric latch retraction panic bar hardware.
The right access-control hardware depends on the door type, frame, latch, strike condition, storefront stile, all-glass door hardware, panic bar, fire/egress requirements, wiring path, low-voltage scope, and budget. A simple electric strike lock installation may be the best option for one door, while a magnetic lock or electrified lockset may be better for another.
This guide compares electric strike vs magnetic lock options, plus electrified cylindrical locks, electrified mortise locks, and electric latch retraction panic bar systems. It also explains electric strike vs electric lock, electric latch vs electric strike, installation complexity, price ranges, wiring responsibilities, and common mistakes.
Electric Strike vs Magnetic Lock: Quick Answer
The basic electric strike vs magnetic lock difference is simple. An electric strike releases the latch at the frame. A magnetic lock, also called a maglock, holds the door with an energized magnet and releases when power is interrupted through the access-control system.
That simple explanation is useful, but it is incomplete. The real electric strike vs magnetic lock decision should include five access-control locking options:
- Electric strike: Releases the latch from the frame. Often practical for metal or wood doors with cylindrical, mortise, or rim-exit hardware.
- Magnetic lock: Holds the door with a magnet and armature plate. Often used on all-glass doors or doors where mechanical latch retrofit is difficult.
- Electrified cylindrical lock: Controls the lockset on the door instead of cutting the frame for a strike.
- Electrified mortise lock: Controls a mortise lock body or trim on higher-grade commercial doors.
- Electric latch retraction panic bar: Retracts the exit-device latch electronically while preserving panic-bar egress from inside.
If a customer asks only for electric strike vs magnetic lock, the locksmith should still inspect the door, frame, closer, latch, panic hardware, wiring, and egress requirements before recommending hardware.
For broader access-control planning, see our access control installation service page.
The 5 Best Safer Access Control Locking Options
A strong electric strike vs magnetic lock article should compare more than two products. Brooklyn businesses use different doors: hollow metal office doors, wood tenant doors, aluminum storefront doors, panic-bar exits, all-glass doors, and building entry doors. Each door may need a different locking method.
Electric Strike
Best when the existing latch hardware can stay on the door and the frame can accept the strike.
Magnetic Lock
Best for some all-glass doors and openings where a latch-based solution is difficult or impractical.
Electrified Cylindrical Lock
Best when a cylindrical lock should control access from the door side instead of the frame.
Electrified Mortise Lock
Best for mortise-prepped doors where the lock body or trim needs to be electrically controlled.
Electric Latch Retraction Panic Bar
Best for panic-bar openings where access control must retract the latch while keeping safe exit.
This is why electric strike vs electric lock matters. An electric strike controls the frame-side release. An electrified lock controls the lockset itself. An electric latch retraction panic bar controls the exit-device latch. A magnetic lock controls the door by holding it closed with magnet force.
Electric Strike: Best for Many Metal and Wood Commercial Doors
In the electric strike vs magnetic lock comparison, an electric strike is often the first option to consider on a hollow metal, wood, or properly prepared commercial frame. An electric strike replaces or modifies the strike area in the frame and releases the latch when access is approved by a keypad, reader, intercom, buzzer, or access-control system.
A basic electric strike lock installation may work well when the door already closes properly, the latch enters the existing strike cleanly, the frame has enough depth, and the customer already has low-voltage wire run to the frame. If the frame is narrow, the latch is too long, the door is sagging, or the electric strike must be cut into aluminum storefront framing, the job becomes more involved.
Manufacturer examples include dormakaba RCI/Rutherford Controls, Camden Door Controls, HES, and Adams Rite. HES has a strong premium reputation, while dormakaba RCI and Camden are often seen as more budget-friendly options depending on the application. Adams Rite is especially important for aluminum storefront hardware. See HES electric strikes and Adams Rite electric strikes for manufacturer context.
The biggest advantage of an electric strike is that it often keeps the mechanical lockset on the door. The inside lever, paddle, panic device, or latch function can still operate mechanically for exit. That is why electric strike vs electric lock is a practical decision: the strike may be cheaper and cleaner when the frame and latch are suitable, but an electrified lock may be better when frame cutting or preload becomes a problem.
Electric Strike Pros
Often practical, familiar, cost-effective, and compatible with many cylindrical, mortise, storefront, and rim exit applications.
Electric Strike Cons
Requires correct latch alignment, frame prep, faceplate selection, voltage, fail-safe/fail-secure selection, and door closer behavior.
In short, electric strike vs magnetic lock often favors electric strike when the door has a reliable latch and a frame that can accept the strike cleanly.
Magnetic Lock: Best for Many All-Glass Doors and Difficult Latch Openings
A magnetic lock, often called a maglock, uses a magnet mounted to the frame or header and an armature plate mounted to the door. In the electric strike vs magnetic lock decision, the maglock is often attractive because it does not depend on a latch entering a strike opening.
Maglocks are commonly considered on all-glass doors because all-glass doors may not have a normal latch-and-frame relationship for a standard strike. They may require specialty rails, patch hardware, brackets, or glass-door mounting solutions. In that case, a magnetic lock can sometimes avoid a more complicated mechanical retrofit.
Manufacturer examples include Camden Door Controls, Securitron, DynaLock, and Locknetics. Securitron’s Magnalock line is a common reference point for high-traffic and high-security electromagnetic locking applications. See Securitron electromagnetic locks for manufacturer context.
The downside is that maglocks are usually more involved than they look. A magnetic lock often needs a reader or keypad, request-to-exit device, push-to-exit button, power supply, fire/egress integration, proper brackets, armature alignment, and sometimes battery backup. On all-glass doors, installation can be more labor-intensive because brackets, wiring concealment, and glass-mounted hardware must be handled carefully.
Maglock Pros
No latch alignment, no keeper preload, fewer moving lock parts, and often useful for all-glass or difficult mechanical-retrofit doors.
Maglock Cons
Usually higher installed cost, more wiring, release hardware, egress planning, brackets, and coordination with access control.
In a simple electric strike vs magnetic lock comparison, the magnetic lock can look easier. In the field, it often becomes harder because the installation must handle power, release hardware, egress logic, and mounting conditions.
Electric Strike vs Electric Lock: Cylindrical and Mortise Options
Electric strike vs electric lock is the missing middle category. Some doors should not use a magnetic lock, but also may not be ideal for an electric strike. In those cases, an electrified cylindrical lock or electrified mortise lock may be the better access-control hardware.
An electrified cylindrical lock controls a cylindrical lever lock from the door side. An electrified mortise lock controls a mortise lock body, lever trim, or latch function from the door side. This can be cleaner than cutting the frame for a strike when the frame is not suitable, when preload is a concern, or when the customer wants the lockset itself to handle access-control behavior.
The tradeoff is wiring. Door-mounted electrified locks often need power transfer from the frame into the door. That may mean an electrified hinge, door loop, concealed power transfer, wire raceway, power supply, and coordination with the access-control system. This is why electric strike vs electric lock must consider labor, not just hardware price.
| Option | Best Door Type | Why Use It | Main Caution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric strike | Metal, wood, some storefront frames | Frame-side release with existing latch hardware | Needs good latch alignment and frame prep |
| Electrified cylindrical lock | Office, staff, tenant, metal or wood doors | Door-side lock control without cutting in a strike | Needs power transfer into the door |
| Electrified mortise lock | Mortise-prepped commercial doors | Stronger lock body and more function options | Higher hardware cost and exact function matching |
For many Brooklyn offices and tenant spaces, electric strike vs electric lock comes down to this: if the frame and latch are right, use a strike. If the frame is difficult or the function belongs in the lock body, consider an electrified lock.
Electrified Deadlatches for Narrow-Stile Storefront Doors
A Brooklyn storefront door often changes the electric strike vs magnetic lock conversation. Aluminum narrow-stile storefront doors may use deadlatches, hook bolts, paddles, pulls, mortise cylinders, electric strikes, or electrified deadlatches.
This is where Adams Rite matters. Adams Rite makes electric strikes for aluminum storefront applications and also offers electrified deadlatch options, including the Steel Hawk 4300 electrified deadlatch category. For some narrow-stile doors, an electrified deadlatch may be cleaner than forcing a magnetic lock or trying to make the wrong electric strike fit the frame.
When comparing electric latch vs electric strike on a storefront door, the main question is where the controlled movement should happen. An electric strike releases the latch at the frame. An electrified latch or deadlatch controls the latch hardware itself. If the storefront frame is tight, the door alignment is sensitive, or the latch/strike relationship is unreliable, the latch-side solution may be better.
For related storefront service, see storefront door lock replacement.
Electric Latch Retraction Panic Bar Hardware
A panic-bar door should not be treated as a regular lock door. If the door has a rim exit device, mortise exit device, vertical rod device, or storefront exit device, the correct option may be an electric latch retraction panic bar or electrified trim rather than a simple electric strike or magnetic lock.
An electric latch retraction panic bar retracts the exit-device latch electronically when access is approved. This can let the door pull open from the outside after a reader or keypad grants access while still preserving panic-bar egress from the inside.
In the electric strike vs magnetic lock debate, panic hardware is where the wrong shortcut becomes expensive. A maglock may require release hardware and egress integration. An electric strike may work for some rim panic applications, but not every exit device or frame is right for it. An electric latch retraction panic bar may cost more, but it can be the correct application.
Von Duprin, Adams Rite, and other exit-device manufacturers have electrified options depending on the device series. For panic and exit hardware context, see Von Duprin exit devices.
- Best use: Controlled entry through a panic-bar door.
- Common hardware: Rim exit device, vertical rod device, mortise exit device, electrified trim, or latch retraction kit.
- Wiring concern: Needs proper power supply, wire path, controller, and often door-side power transfer.
- Cost concern: Higher hardware and labor cost than many basic electric strike jobs.
- Safety concern: Exit function must not be compromised.
For panic-bar service, see panic bar installation.
Electric Latch vs Electric Strike
Electric latch vs electric strike is a useful way to explain the difference between door-side and frame-side access control. An electric strike is frame-side hardware. It releases the latch at the frame. An electric latch, electrified lockset, electrified deadlatch, or electric latch retraction device controls the latch from the door hardware itself.
In practical terms, electric latch vs electric strike usually comes down to retrofit conditions. If the existing frame can accept the strike and the latch works reliably, the strike may be the better price. If the frame cannot be cut cleanly, if the latch geometry is wrong, if the door has panic hardware, or if the lock function belongs in the door, the electrified latch option may be better.
| Question | Electric Strike | Electric Latch / Electrified Lock |
|---|---|---|
| Where is control? | Frame side | Door side |
| Best for? | Good latch and suitable frame | Door-mounted lock control or difficult frame prep |
| Wiring path? | Usually to the frame | Usually into the door |
| Common risk? | Preload, alignment, frame cutting | Power transfer, hardware cost, function matching |
The electric latch vs electric strike decision is one reason a locksmith should inspect the opening before promising a specific product.
Electric Strike vs Magnetic Lock Cost Comparison
Cost is a major part of the electric strike vs magnetic lock decision. Hardware price matters, but labor often matters more. Wiring, power transfer, frame cutting, release hardware, door alignment, all-glass brackets, panic hardware, and access-control coordination can change the final price.
These are planning ranges for Brooklyn commercial work. Final price depends on the door, hardware, wiring, access-control scope, and whether the customer already has a low-voltage technician.
Electric Strike Installation
$650–$1,450+
A standard electric strike lock installation may be lower when the frame is prepared, the latch aligns, and wire is already run.
Budget / Standard Strike
$650–$1,100+
Often suitable for simpler dormakaba RCI, Camden, or similar applications when the door and frame are straightforward.
Premium Strike
$950–$1,750+
Used when the job needs heavier-duty hardware, monitoring, preload capability, special faceplates, or more frame work.
Magnetic Lock
$1,200–$3,500+
Costs more when brackets, release devices, power supply, reader, REX, fire/egress integration, and wiring are included.
Maglock on All-Glass Door
$1,500–$4,500+
All-glass doors usually increase labor because of brackets, glass-mounted hardware, wiring concealment, and alignment.
Electrified Cylindrical Lock
$900–$2,200+
Depends on lockset, power transfer, function, wire path, and whether door prep is already compatible.
Electrified Mortise Lock
$1,200–$3,000+
Costs more because mortise hardware, function matching, power transfer, and labor are more involved.
Electric Latch Retraction Panic Bar
$1,500–$4,500+
An electric latch retraction panic bar can require a new exit device, controller, power supply, trim, wire path, and setup.
In many jobs, electric strike vs magnetic lock is not just product price. It is total installed cost. A maglock may look affordable as a part, but the installed system may be more expensive because of release hardware, access-control wiring, egress requirements, and mounting labor.
Wiring, Low-Voltage Scope, and Who Is Doing What
Wiring can change the whole electric strike vs magnetic lock estimate. Some customers already have a low-voltage technician who ran wire to the frame, door, reader, power supply, or controller. In that case, the locksmith may only be installing and connecting the locking hardware.
Other jobs require the locksmith or access-control provider to supply hardware, power supply, wire path, power transfer, keypad or reader, request-to-exit device, release button, door closer review, and final setup. That is a much larger scope than a basic electric strike lock installation.
- Frame-side wiring: Common for electric strikes and some maglock header installations.
- Door-side wiring: Common for electrified cylindrical locks, electrified mortise locks, and some panic hardware.
- Power transfer: Needed when power must pass from frame to moving door.
- Reader/keypad wiring: May be handled by a low-voltage tech, access-control vendor, or locksmith depending on scope.
- All-glass wiring: Often more difficult because concealment and mounting options are limited.
- Release hardware: Maglocks usually need proper request-to-exit and release hardware, not just a reader.
A clear scope prevents confusion. Before comparing electric strike vs magnetic lock pricing, confirm whether the quote includes only the locking hardware or the entire access-control system.
Best Option by Door Type
The best way to decide electric strike vs magnetic lock is to start with the door type. The same access-control reader can control very different locking hardware depending on whether the opening is hollow metal, wood, aluminum storefront, all-glass, or panic hardware.
| Door Type | Usually Best Starting Point | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Hollow metal office door | Electric strike or electrified cylindrical lock | Often has standard latch hardware and frame options. |
| Commercial wood door | Electric strike, electrified cylindrical lock, or electrified mortise lock | Depends on existing prep, function, and frame condition. |
| Aluminum storefront door | Adams Rite-style electric strike or electrified deadlatch | Narrow-stile hardware requires storefront-specific planning. |
| All-glass door | Magnetic lock or specialty glass-door hardware | Often no normal latch-and-frame relationship for a standard strike. |
| Panic-bar exit door | Electric latch retraction panic bar, electrified trim, or compatible strike | Exit behavior must be preserved from inside. |
| Fire-rated or egress door | Code-appropriate hardware after review | Do not modify fire/egress hardware casually. |
For some doors, electric strike vs magnetic lock has a clear answer. For others, the better question is electric strike vs electric lock or electric latch vs electric strike.
Common Mistakes When Comparing Electric Strike vs Magnetic Lock
Most access-control mistakes happen because the customer starts with a product name instead of the door opening. The best electric strike vs magnetic lock decision starts with the door, frame, latch, exit path, wiring, and budget.
- Choosing a maglock because it sounds stronger: A magnetic lock may be wrong if egress hardware, wiring, or release devices are not planned correctly.
- Installing an electric strike on a bad door: Latch alignment, closer pressure, hinge sag, or strike preload can ruin the installation.
- Ignoring electric strike vs electric lock: Sometimes the lockset should be electrified instead of the frame strike.
- Forgetting electric latch vs electric strike: Storefront and panic hardware may need latch-side control.
- Underestimating electric latch retraction panic bar cost: Exit-device electrification can require hardware, power supply, controller, and wiring.
- Not budgeting low-voltage work: Wiring may cost more than expected if no wire exists at the opening.
- Using budget hardware in the wrong place: Less expensive RCI or Camden-style options may be fine for some jobs, while premium hardware may be justified on heavy-use openings.
- Ignoring all-glass door complexity: Maglocks on all-glass doors often require specialty brackets, careful alignment, and more labor.
A proper electric strike vs magnetic lock comparison should include total installed cost, not just part price.
Photos to Send Before Access-Control Hardware Installation
Good photos help determine whether electric strike vs magnetic lock, electrified lockset, storefront deadlatch, or electric latch retraction panic bar hardware makes the most sense.
- Full outside door view: Show the door, frame, handle, pull, reader location, and storefront or glass details.
- Full inside door view: Show panic bar, closer, hinges, trim, request-to-exit device, or push button if present.
- Door edge: Show latch, deadlatch, mortise lock, exit-device latch, or cylindrical latch.
- Frame strike area: Show the strike, electric strike location, jamb depth, and frame material.
- Top of door/header: Needed when a magnetic lock or all-glass door installation is being considered.
- Existing wiring: Show any wire, power supply, reader wire, door loop, electrified hinge, or access-control panel.
- Panic hardware: Show the full panic bar, latch end, hinge end, outside trim, and strike.
- All-glass hardware: Show top rail, bottom rail, patch fittings, closer, and available mounting area.
FAQ: Electric Strike vs Magnetic Lock
What is the difference between electric strike vs magnetic lock?
Electric strike vs magnetic lock means frame-side latch release versus magnetic holding force. An electric strike releases the existing latch at the frame. A magnetic lock holds the door closed with a magnet and armature plate.
Which is better, electric strike vs magnetic lock?
It depends on the door. Electric strikes are often better for hollow metal or wood doors with good latch alignment. Magnetic locks are often better for all-glass doors or doors where latch-based retrofit is difficult.
What is electric strike vs electric lock?
Electric strike vs electric lock compares frame-side release with door-side lock control. An electric strike releases the latch at the frame, while an electrified cylindrical or mortise lock controls the lockset itself.
What is electric latch vs electric strike?
Electric latch vs electric strike compares latch-side control with frame-side release. An electrified latch or electrified lock controls the latch from the door hardware, while an electric strike releases the latch from the frame.
What is an electric latch retraction panic bar?
An electric latch retraction panic bar retracts the exit-device latch electronically when access is approved, while preserving panic-bar exit from the inside.
Is a magnetic lock common on all-glass doors?
Yes. A magnetic lock is often used on all-glass doors because there may be no standard latch-and-frame relationship for a typical electric strike installation.
How much does electric strike lock installation cost?
Electric strike lock installation often ranges from $650–$1,450+, depending on the strike, frame prep, latch alignment, wiring, power supply, and access-control scope.
How much does magnetic lock installation cost?
Magnetic lock installation often ranges from $1,200–$3,500+, and all-glass door maglock work may run $1,500–$4,500+ because of brackets, release hardware, wiring, and labor.
Is electric strike cheaper than magnetic lock?
Often, yes. Electric strike installation is usually less expensive when the frame and latch are compatible. A magnetic lock can cost more because it needs release hardware, wiring, brackets, and egress planning.
Do I need a low-voltage technician?
Maybe. If wire, reader, controller, and power supply are already installed, the locksmith may only need to mount and connect hardware. If no wiring exists, the project may need low-voltage or access-control wiring work.
Can a locksmith install electric strikes and maglocks?
Brooklyn Locksmith 247 can help with electric strike lock installation, magnetic lock hardware planning, electrified lockset consultation, electric latch retraction panic bar hardware, and access-control door hardware coordination.
